End game situation #1

In the above game of Eight-ball, you are stripes and it is your turn. What would be the best thing to do here? Do you bank, play safe or make a ball. Please post your solutions under comments.

Eight-Ball 101: Analyzing The After Break Layout

Okay, so you just broke and made the one ball on the break. It is your turn to shoot again. Should you automatically pick solids since you have already made one on the break? The answer is NO! and for several reasons: Remember that the table is always open following the break. The first legally pocketed ball made after the break is what determines which player has what group of balls. Therefore, you do not have to take what falls on the break. Nor should you, simply on the basis that there would be fewer of that group left on the table for you to make. Contrary to popular belief, that is not your best strategy. So, now that we have addressed some common misconceptions, lets get to work on analyzing the table properly and selecting the best group of balls to win the game with.

1. Take a look at the 8-ball. Note that it is free and clear of any other balls or clusters. This is important because, if it weren't, you would have a problem that would have to be solved there in order to win.
2. Look for any clusters on the table. Which groups of balls do they involve? In this case, the 6 (solid) and the 9 (stripe) are tied up together. Therefore neither group of balls are favored in this cluster. However, the 5 (solid) and 7 (solid) are also tied up in another cluster, making the solids a less favorable choice from the cluster stand point.
3. What key balls can be used to break the clusters? In the case of the 6 and 9 ball, the 10 ball (stripe) is also located nearby and can be pocketed at some point in the game when the cue ball is at an angle to rebound off the 10 directly into the cluster. The 5, 7 cluster does not really have a key ball nearby that can be easily made and used to break up the cluster. With this analysis in mind, another point is scored in favor of selecting stripes.
4. Do any balls block pockets? Essentially, balls in the jaws of a pocket, or basically blocking the path of other balls, can be viewed as defensive blockers. In this case, the 11 ball (stripe) is a blocker which can easily be made at some point in your run.
5. What balls are makeable as a first shot from where the cue ball lays? Okay, so now you know "stripes" would be the best choice in this layout. Now you must decide what shot to take first. The easiest shot would obviously be the three ball into the side pocket. But, now that you have properly analyzed the table, you know that establishing solids as your group of balls would ultimately not be a strategically sound choice. Keep in mind that sometimes you may have to attempt a more difficult shot as your first shot in order to establish the best group of balls for yourself in order to win the game! Luckily in this layout, several striped balls lay in easily makeable positions. My first choice would be to make the fifteen and play shape for the 14.

Now that you know how to analyze the table and select the best group of balls to win, stay tuned for my upcoming analysis of how to think through the runout of this rack in my upcoming blog entry to come soon!!!!

Eight-ball side break

The eight-ball side break outlined above is a great break to use on bar-sized tables, especially when the tournament rules allow for a win if the 8-ball drops and the cue ball does not scratch.

1. There are a few key elements to consider here:
2. Look for a gap between the 8 ball and one of the side balls in the same row.
3. If there is a gap, break from the side opposite the gap.
4. Place the cue ball a few inches off the side rail with at least 51% of the ball behind the headstring.
5. Aim for the second ball in the rack, just missing the head ball.
6. Be sure to put draw on the ball on the final stroke.Apply power, but maintain your accuracy!!!

When looking at the rack, you must first examine the balls on either side of the 8 ball. In this rack, that would be the 3 ball and the 2 ball. A common misconception is that both of these balls must be touching in order for this to be a good rack. Well, that is true if you are the racker. However, as the breaking opponent, I would not refuse a rack where one of these balls are loose. Rather, I would choose to use the eight-ball side break. These balls on either side of the 8, when frozen to the 8, are basically jail guards keeping the 8 ball from moving out of the pack on the break. However, if one of these are loose, you can use the energy transference of the frozen balls on the other side of the gap to increase your chances of moving the 8 ball our of the pack and often into the side pocket labeled "A". In addition, the 8 ball will sometimes get a kick from a ball in the pack and be sent up table into pocket "B". When this break is executed correctly, you should get a nice spread of the balls and the cue ball should be located between the 2nd diamond and center of the table. If you end up scratching in the lower left corner pocket, then it is likely that you either did not actually hit below center on the cue ball to apply any draw to the cue ball, or you hit more on the side of the second ball in the rack, creating a perfect scratch angle. Try paying more attention to your line of aim and where you are hitting the cue ball on the final stroke.

Eight-Ball Pro Rules Made Simple

1. 8-Ball is a "call shot" game. In order for a player to legally pocket a ball and continue his/her turn at the table, the following must occur:
   • The opponent must make a specific ball in a specific pocket. If the correct ball falls in the correct pocket, and no foul is committed, the shot is legal and the opponent may continue his/her turn at the table.
     • Please Note: It is NEVER necessary to call the number of rails hit, object ball or cue ball kisses.
   • Obvious shots. Unless otherwise agreed by both players, obvious balls and pockets do not have to be indicated, but are assumed. Obvious shots are basic cut shots. A shot is NOT considered obvious if it involves kicks, banks, or a cluster of balls in which the intended ball sits in close proximity (less than one balls distance) to other balls of the player’s grouping. In these cases, the player must state the intended ball and the intended pocket. If this is not done, the opposing player may consider it as a missed shot and the shooting player’s inning must come to an end. However, this does not constitute a foul.
2. The Rack: The first ball in the rack should sit directly on the foot spot of the table. In the last row, one corner ball must be a solid and the other a stripe. The 8-ball sits in the middle of the third row. There should be some sort of alternating pattern used to decrease the likelihood of clusters after the break.
3. The penalty for a foul in 8-Ball is BALL IN HAND ANYWHERE on the table. The only exception is when a foul is committed by scratching on the break. When this occurs, the incoming player must place the cue-ball behind the breaking headstring.
4. Who breaks first? The first player to break the balls may be determined by the flip of a coin, or by each lagging a playing ball to the end rail and back. The closest to the second rail wins. (It does not matter if the ball hits the second rail or not.)
5. What makes a break legal? The shooter must either pocket a ball on the break, or drive at least four balls from the rack to the rails. If this does not occur, the opponent has the option (1) to accept the rack as is, or (2) to have the breaker re-break. If this foul occurs a second time in a row, the opponent has the option to re-rack and assume the break.
6. Succeeding break always goes to the winner of the preceding game unless otherwise agreed upon in advance.
7. The break. Any ball(s) made on the break, without a scratch or foul, entitle the breaking player to continue at the table. If no balls are made, the opposing player’s inning begins.
8. Choice of grouping (solids or stripes) always remains open directly following the break, regardless of what balls are made on the break. The first legally pocketed ball, after the initial break, will determine which group of balls is claimed for each player.
9. If the eight ball is made early in the game, before the offending player has completely pocketed all of his/her balls, a loss of game will result.
10. The eight ball may never be struck first in an attempt to pocket another ball or to play a safety when the shooting player has other balls of his/her grouping remaining on the table. If this occurs, the player loses his/her turn at the table and the incoming player is awarded ball in hand ANYWHERE on the table.
11. Combination shots are allowed; however, the 8-ball can’t be used as a first ball in the combination unless it is the shooter’s only remaining legal object ball on the table. Otherwise, should such contact occur on the 8-ball, it is a foul.
12. All balls stay down. All balls pocketed or jumped from the table surface remain pocketed, regardless of whether or not they are the intended ball or pocket.
13. Object balls jumped off the surface of table, and do not return to naturally come to rest on the playing surface of the table, are considered to be illegally pocketed. The ball is placed in a pocket and counted towards the player that has that grouping. The offending player loses his/her turn at the table and the incoming player must continue from wherever the cue ball rests.
14. If the cue ball is jumped off the table, the incoming player has ball in hand anywhere on the table.
15. If the eight ball is jumped off the table, a loss of game will result for the offending player.

For a printable version, click here.

For a more complete reference to the World Standardized Rules for 8- Ball, please click here.